The Pleasure of Ambiguity

-This time, I would like to ask you about your personal life and Rare Metal, which started in 2024. First, let's talk about Rare Metal. How did this one start?

Nagato (N) "The first time I held an exhibition was at the end of 2024. It was an installation of my collage works themselves and clothes printed with my works. I wanted to make the point that Rare Metal is not a brand, but a piece of my creative work.

-Are there any characteristics of rare metals?

N “In the process of making my collage, I kept a single-lens reflex camera with a macro lens attached at hand and repeatedly found good places (points) in the process of making the collage and took pictures of them. The photos were also photographic works, which themselves became materials for the digital collages. At the time, I was fascinated by the world of ”leaning.

-After such a topical exhibition, you have a clear picture of the rare metal skeleton, haven't you?

N "I worked as an archaeologist from my 20s to my 30s, and that feeling, combined with the meaning of a metal that is scarce, made me think of the term "rare metal," and I decided to make it my lifework with this as its axis. When I visualized my creative activities without any restrictions, I thought it would be easier to get into it if I gave it a separate name. So the framework of Rare Metal is already in sight: myself. I don't have a fixed vision of what I will do in the future. In that sense, maybe it is a matter of enjoying change (laughs). When I did the exhibition, I didn't feel comfortable with the usual way of displaying clothes and having people place orders, and I didn't know how to do it in my own way. Later, I came up with the idea that it would be better if I made it more ambiguous. What is the purpose of this space? What is the purpose of this space? Rare Metal's flow is an expression of process, an activity that is less than a work of art and less than a piece of clothing, with that much blank space (laughs)."

-However, it is also true that products are produced. Can you tell us about the products that Rare Metals has developed in the past?

N "There are T-shirts, hoodies and scarves printed with collage works. The scarves, in particular, are made of cotton and feature very high reproducibility of the prints. The colors of the fine details of the collage are also reproduced well. Because it is cotton, it can be wrapped as a scarf or pulled around the waist like a tenugui (hand towel). It can also be worn around the waist like a hand towel, and even if the color fades after repeated washing, it will still look good. We hope to release scarves on an ongoing basis.

-What else seems to be a rare metal?

N “Last November, I held a live concert called ”SCUM55" with a photographer, Masayuki Shiota, and my son. This event was held in honor of my 55th birthday, and I was joined by other young bands such as Dob and Okifu, as well as TOMMY, the owner of BOY, a vintage clothing store in Shibuya, and A VIRGIN. The location was an abandoned place called Koenji TKA4, and I think the expression of enjoying what you like with your favorite members is an important element of Rare Metal."

-Do you think that activities other than making products are also a part of Rare Metal's character?

N "I think it's more like me. Rare metal is the next metaphor for my creative activities, and maybe it's not even a label. So strictly speaking, there is no beginning and no end. It depends on how I do it and my mood. Therefore, it is unpredictable, and I am never satisfied with my interest in it. I may release apparel on a regular basis, and so on. I want to place such ambiguity at the center of my work. I don't mean to be eccentric, but that's the mood I'm in right now, coupled with my age."

-There are still some interesting things in this studio. What about this chair?

N "I am planning a pop-up at Barneys New York Roppongi in April, and this is what I am working on for that. It's a collage of old skateboard magazines and movie posters cut up and pasted onto vintage pipe chairs."

-There is also a booklet at hand.

N “This is a zine. We are releasing two kinds of zines irregularly. One is under the name of Rare Metal, which I produced all by myself. One is under the name of Rare Metal, which I produced all by myself. I do the book design, editing, graphics, and write short stories. The other is a zine I started under the label ”IRU BOOKS," which is the name of my company, IRU being the opposite of Rare Metal, and is a project to create zines with photographers, artists, vintage clothing stores, and other people I like, regardless of their profession, gender, age, or nationality. It is a project to make zines with people I care about, regardless of their profession, gender, age, or nationality. Lately, when I mingle with people, I also think about the possibilities for something at IRU Books."

-What is your outlook for the future?

N "It's simple, but it means that I never stop creating. I just keep creating. Whether at work or in my private life, I will continue to move forward with my hands in some way. I keep feeling the reality of my surroundings. The same goes for rare metal, but I want to continue my creative activities, oscillating between improvisational and ambiguous processes and expressions. Is that a good outlook?　"

[Tetsuya Nagato]
Born in Tokyo in 1970. Moved to the U.S. after graduating from high school. After returning to Japan in 1996, he began working as an art director for advertisements, packages, and music videos. He has collaborated with Undercover and Evisen Skateboards, etc. In 2024, he will launch his own fashion brand "Rare Metal". In 2024, he will launch his own fashion brand, "Rare Metal.